Text by Natalie Schack
Images by John Hook
T
he art of natural dyeing is not just about color—it’s a profound expression weaving together the history, culture, and ecology of a place. For this trio of distinct artists, the production of natural dyes is a means to work hand in hand with nature, honor traditions, and forge personal relationships with the land. Through their works, they invite us into a world where color is more than a visual experience; it’s a journey of reverence and transformation.
Wai‘ala Ahn
Coaxing Color from the Earth
For Wai‘ala Ahn, natural dyeing began as a slow and humble process rooted in her Hawaiian upbringing. Growing up with traditional practices such as hula, she watched as the older generation carefully gathered plants for adornments. As a child, she didn’t understand the significance of the labor involved. It wasn’t until years later, while teaching lei-making herself, that she began to grasp the intricate, painstaking beauty of the process, notably the deep connection found between the land and the shades it produces. “I do adore the color, but it’s really the process that has hooked me for 10 years,” she says. “It takes so much longer than just putting a piece of fiber in a solution and there being color. There are hours, days, and sometimes, depending on the color, years of labor.”
Today, Ahn and her husband, Justin Cook Tripp, operate their natural dyery and workshop space on their picturesque homestead nestled on the slopes of Mauna Loa, where they live with their young child. Her days are spent among the land she cherishes, where her connection to nature is palpable. Surrounded by lush forests and lava fields, she practices a lifestyle that is both self-sustaining and deeply connected to the rhythms of the earth. “I’m a plant lover and a nature lover by design,” she reflects. “My childhood was shaped by cultural and environmental activists, so preservation and conservation are very important to me.” The mountains are not only a place of peace but also an endless source of inspiration for her work. Her homestead serves as both sanctuary and laboratory. It’s a place where she can slow down, listen to the land, and extract vibrant colors from the plants she carefully cultivates.
Ahn’s practice is not merely about achieving a perfect color, but rather embracing the slow, meditative process of coaxing pigment from nature. She often works with the abundant plants around her, favoring those that are accessible, such as black beans, cabbage, and ‘ōlena (turmeric). Her most beloved medium, however, is indigo, specifically the tropical variety known as Indigofera suffruticosa. Considered invasive in Hawai‘i, the plant is removed and repurposed in Ahn’s hands into striking blue hues.
Her dyeing process is a lesson in patience. Fireweed, for example, yields a vibrant citron-yellow when steamed, depending on the fiber it’s used on. “When you treat it like a tea, the true hues come out,” she says, explaining that the longer you let fireweed steep, the more vibrant the shade of gold. Factors such as the water’s mineral content or the soil’s composition can create subtle variations in color. Each dye bath produces a unique hue, one that cannot be replicated. The dyes also change over time, deepening or fading, just as the Hawaiian landscape transforms with the passage of seasons and years. “They’re evolving, just like we are,” Ahn notes.
Avalon Paradea
A Cultural Canvas
Some of the artist Avalon Paradea’s favorite plants to work with are ‘uki‘uki, a native species that yields a striking blue, and ma‘o hau hele, the yellow hibiscus that creates a hue that can shift from blue to green depending on how it’s treated. Paradea marvels at the moment during the dyeing process when a color shift occurs unexpectedly, describing it as “magic.” “I love it when the plants surprise me,” Paradea reflects. “The fun part is not knowing. Will it be blue or will it be something else?”
Paradea’s journey into natural dyeing was a life-changing experience that bridged their love for the land and deepened their understanding for the cultural practice of waiho‘olu‘u mea kanu (plant dyes), past and present. Raised in Hawai‘i, Paradea’s work reflects a deep reverence for native plants and their role in both environmental conservation and cultural practices. A turning point came in 2016 after Paradea took a natural dye workshop at Kumuola Foundation on O‘ahu, hosted by Ka‘iulani de Silva. The experience of co-creating with nature to produce a spectrum of possibilities was a font of inspiration for them as an artist, horticulturist, and beyond. “It was a moment when I realized that this was going to change my perspective on both art and plants,” Paradea shares.
Their passion for native plants grew as they worked with the Ko‘olau Mountains Watershed Partnership, learning to remove invasive species while simultaneously exploring the dye potential of native flora. “The more I worked around these plants, the deeper my understanding grew about their cultural significance and the relationship between them and the environment,” Paradea says. Paradea’s work spans both traditional and experimental approaches to dyeing. They’ve become deeply involved in kapa, the traditional Hawaiian bark cloth, after discovering a passion for it in 2017. “It was something I always wanted to learn, but I didn’t know where to start,” Paradea says, recalling that this changed upon meeting kapa maker Roen Hufford at Hawai‘i Island’s annual Wiliwili Festival. “She invited me to join her hui (group), and I never stopped coming back.”
Through this community, Paradea has deepened their practice, learning to dye kapa with native and non-native plants. “I see myself as a co-creator,” they say. “I work with living elements, and those plants will do their own thing. There’s magic in that uncertainty.”
Kristin Baucom
Art of All Shades
Kristin Baucom, the creative force behind the brand Okbet, has carved a distinctive space at the intersection of fashion, sustainability, and innovation. Since launching her brand in 2021, Baucom has blended the ancient art of natural dyeing with contemporary streetwear and dynamic installations. Her work celebrates the natural world, creating vibrant, eco-conscious pieces that draw inspiration from local resources and community-driven values.
Baucom found her way into natural dyeing during the pandemic, a time that reignited her connection to the islands and her passion for sustainability. With a background in environmental management from the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, Baucom had always been attuned to nature’s rhythms. Initially experimenting with soap-making, she soon turned her attention to natural dyeing, foraging plants like hibiscus, avocado pits, and strawberry guava from her surroundings. You’ll find her either scouring hiking trails in Nu‘uanu or gathering fallen flora from her own backyard. “Foraging is such a personal part of my process,” she says. “I love that I can create something beautiful while also being in tune with the environment.”
Okbet began with Baucom’s vision to merge natural dyes with upcycled streetwear. Think unexpected statement pieces like detachable collars with delicate ruffled borders and sleek muslin vests in natural shades of salmon or tan.
Over time, her practice expanded to include art installations and a collection of quirky, sculptural lamps, which have become a hallmark of her practice. Baucom’s lamp designs are particularly distinctive, crafted from upcycled leather, wood, and naturally dyed silk. “I like the idea of bringing nature into the home in a functional but also artistic way,” she says. “Each lamp is a little piece of the environment, transformed into something unique.”
At the heart of Baucom’s work is a commitment to experimentation. Her curiosity drives her to explore new dye sources and techniques, such as fermenting milo nuts or using pH-sensitive dyes, like purple cabbage, to create ever-changing hues. “I’m constantly pushing myself to learn more. The more I experiment, the more I realize there’s always something new to discover,” she says.
Collaborations with brands like Ron Herman—for whom she most recently produced a slew of silk button-downs hand-dyed in luscious shades of deep chocolate and sky blue—showcase her versatile approach. Baucom’s varied projects aim to redefine the medium beyond its boho chic associations by marrying her love of sustainability, the craft of dying, and a passion for contemporary aesthetics, a sensibility exemplified in her one-of-a-kind lamps, which more closely resemble modern art than home goods. “Natural dyeing doesn’t have to be bohemian or old-fashioned,” she explains. “It can be fun, edgy, and still respect the environment. I’m all about creating something that feels fresh and unexpected.”
